After studying International Criminal Law and International Human Rights Law during my final year of undergraduate law, I had become familiar with the vast body of case law that arose in the aftermath of the 1990s Yugoslavian Wars. Yet when it came to the region itself and the contextual background of these cases, like many, I was at more of a loss. The nature of the conflict, with its many complexities and horrors have contributed to placing it further from our minds despite its relative temporal and geographical proximity. With this being the case and as an aspiring International Human Rights lawyer, I felt a pull towards the region. I wished to unravel some of these intricacies for myself by experiencing first-hand the intertwining cultures, language, hopes, histories and personal stories of its peoples.

My trip started in Dubrovnik on the Adriatic coast. Nowadays, the medieval fort city is a UNESCO world heritage site, teeming with sunseekers, Game of Thrones enthusiasts and after Croatia’s recent World Cup success, sports fans. All of which made the atmosphere somewhat claustrophobic and increasingly difficult to connect with the stories and pictures I was seeing in some of the museums I visited. I was initially worried that this would become a theme throughout my trip – that the region has moved on to such a degree that I would not be able to glean from it the immersion and understanding that I so desired prior to arriving. Nonetheless, my next destination, Mostar, proved these fears to be premature.

Mostar is a city known for its segregation, being situated near to the Croatian border and therefore populated predominantly by both Croats and Bosniaks. Like many in Bosnia, the city still bears the scars of the conflict as many buildings still lie in ruins abandoned. One such building includes what is known as the ‘Sniper Tower,’ an old high-rise that was used as a sniper post and feared across the city. The juxtaposition of the horror of this building and the children’s playground lying in its shadow was striking and epitomised many of the similar dichotomies I discovered in the ‘Land of Blood and Honey.’

My next stop, Sarajevo, also shows scars from the fourteen-month siege that it was a victim of. There, I began to understand the various attempts of the international community to alleviate the suffering of the people of Bosnia. I visited the Freedom Tunnel, a tunnel built by local citizens underneath the airport that was designated as a UN Safe Area. It was therefore safe for Bosnians to transport supplies, arms and personnel to and from the territory they controlled. Another safe area that has since become synonymous with the genocide and ethnic cleansing that occurred in the region is Srebrenica. The day that I spent in the town was an emotionally moving and above all, inspiring day.

As I begin to think about which career path I follow and how best to use my studies and interests, visiting Srebrenica, an abject failure of the international community, inspires me to do better. Whilst travelling, I repeatedly heard the phrase ‘I’m not angry at the Serbians/Bosnians, I’m angry at the international powers that be. The reason being that I still see people in Syria/Yemen/Sudan, living through the same horrors and the same mistakes being made.’ As an international lawyer, it is my responsibility and goal to ensure these mistakes are averted and all that can be done to help those in need legally is done.

I must take this opportunity to thank the Hatfield Trust for its generosity and support that allowed me to travel to the Balkans. It had a profound effect on me in many various ways: academically, professionally and my personal development as well for which I am truly grateful.